Quick tips to sewing hems on jeans

An excellent tutorial on how to sew hems on jeans is available here.

I would like to add several suggestions.

In this photo regular default stitching is on the left, slightly elongated stitching is in the center, and triple stitching is shown on the right.

Denim needles or at the very least 90/14 needles are a must. Denim is a tightly woven fabric and hard to sew through with lightweight needles. When you reach very dense areas, such as, the multiple layers found at the seams you will need to slow down. Rotating the handwheel of your machine to pierce the fabric will save your sewing machine's motor, your needles, and your nerves. You may need to advance the machine stitch by stitch across this very dense area. After you pass it you can continue sewing as normal.

Denim needles are also available as double needles. The caveat about slowing down goes double for these needles. :):)

Thread color is easily matched to the topstitching thread on the existing pants. But beware. Each pair of jeans is slightly different. Even the same manufacturer can have slightly different thread colors. Just check it out with each new pair of jeans. Normal sewing thread is just fine to use.

Select a slightly longer stitch length than the normal default. This allows you to more closely approximate the existing stitching.

Even better, use the triple stitch function on your machine. Most machines have this stitch under "utility stitches". It also can be elongated slightly. This combination of matching thread color + elongated stitch length + utility stitch makes a very effective hemstitch on your altered jeans.

Finally, sewing over thick seams is always a problem. If the presser foot is not kept parallel to the bed of the machine you can risk breaking a needle. I can verify this by experience all too well. :( There is a little accessory called a Button Clearance Foot. Look for Husqvarna Part No. 41 11 732 01 or 41 31 056 01. Most sewing machine stores can get this for you. It slips under the presser foot before or after it reaches the seam and raises the foot. This allows the machine to continue sewing safely and with the same stitch length. It's one of the handiest little tools in my sewing drawer.


View the tutorial I mentioned here and consider the additional comments I have posted. In no time you will turn out hemmed jeans that even the fussiest person will be happy to wear.

Serger thread works well for many uses, but not all

Serger thread can be a boon for the sewer, and not just for serging.

Serger thread or cone thread (because it comes wound on cone-like spools, of course) is a thinner, two ply thread meant for use in home sergers. It has only two strands of thread wound together unlike the more common three-ply thread used for every day sewing. As a result the thread is thinner. It is also wound in one direction and other threads are wound in the other. (Don’t ask me which way, this confuses me. Supposedly this affects the way it comes off the spool but I never seem to see the difference.)

It is also a strong, polyester thread. Originally meant for high speed machines it stands up well to my sewing.

And it seems to have less lint than some of the threads out there. It is not lint-free, no thread really is. This saves time on cleaning out your machine, especially the bobbin area. Please tell me you are cleaning out your machine regularly!

I do actually use it for serging. My serger uses up thread at a fantastic rate and I buy in multiples, rarely one cone at a time. And BTW, if you are doing one project in a funky color, you don’t have to buy FOUR cones. Buy two for the loopers and wind off bobbins of this color to use for the needle threads. A bobbin’s worth of thread is usually enough for a garment or a couple of throw pillows or a child’s Halloween costume.

Or try color blending. Good old gray, in light, medium, or dark usually blends well with other colors. Use your matching color thread in the needle threads. Try this on scraps to see if you like the effect. I stock up on grays whenever I can.

But I also use serger thread in my regular sewing machine.

Warning: I do NOT piece quilts with it. Because it is a strong thread over time it can actually damage fine cotton fibers. There is an old adage,”Never use a thread stronger than your fabric.” Well, maybe not that old. Though my kids will say, if I say it, it has to be old! The saying is try, the one about the thread, not my kids’. Strong polyester thread can act as a saw and cut throw weaker cotton threads.

However, I do use it for appliqué, just not in the top of my machine. I like serger thread as the bobbin thread when doing machine appliqué. Because of the wide range of colors I can usually find a color that goes with the top thread. This reduces show through if my tension isn’t exactly right. And the lighter weight two ply makes great bobbin thread in my sewing machine.

But, I only use it as bobbin thread occasionally in my embroidery machine and only when the embroidery will be seen on both sides, such as, on towels. I like to embroider fun towels for the different holidays. Winding off embroidery threads to use in the bobbins doesn’t work well for me. Probably that cross winding directional thing about thread! Using a colored serger thread for the back side embroidery does work. This thread doesn’t have the same sheen as pretty rayon or polyester embroidery threads but the color on the underneath of your project works well. The lighter weight is not quite as thin as regular embroidery bobbin thread but it’s close.

And, serger thread makes great basting thread. Yes, I sometimes still baste. Sometimes you just have to. The thread is stronger than regular sewing thread and the thin ply pulls out more easily when pulling your basting stitches. Be careful and use a contrasting thread that shows well on your fashion fabric but don’t go crazy. I usually use white or light gray. Never use something like red or black! You can leave lint and dye behind. Ask me how I know.

So, I hope you will give serger thread a try, even if you don’t own a serger.

Sew potholders to celebrate Julia Child

Sew a quick potholder to celebrate this weekend! Julia Child was born on August 15th. What better way to have fun this weekend than to sew something for the kitchen. My favorite quick project is a pair of potholders.

One of my favorite shops, Quilting by the Yard, is having a sale on kitchen novelty fabrics to celebrate Julia. They're having a Food Celebration Weekend. From August 2th through Sunday, August 15th they will be offering a 25% off sale on all wine or food theme fabrics. And every purchase gets an entry to win the book Julie and Julia!

I go through a lot of potholders during a year. Between constant washing and scorching they wear out quickly. And, these are so quick to make you’ll want some for every season. Use your scraps or buy some of the fun novelty fruit and vegetable prints that are in the quilt shops now. You can make one pair of potholders from a fat quarter, though you might need a little bit more for bias binding for both. Get two coordinating prints fat quarters and you will definitely have more than enough for these two potholders plus extra to trim towels, or appliqué a table runner to match.

Prewash your fabrics. This is one project that definitely benefits from pre-washing the fabrics. Potholders get such wear and tear in the kitchen and need to be washable.

• Cut four eight inch squares from the novelty fabric.
• Cut two four inch squares from batting fabric. (It should come as no surprise to my friends that I use wool as my batting in this project. Not only do I have a lot of wool in my stash, felted and otherwise, but wool is a natural heat resistant fabric. If it is felted it is already washed and shrunk. And, it is easy to needle through.)
• Cut two 1-7/8” x 34” or piece bias strips together to make this length for the binding.
• Assemble two sandwiches by layering novelty fabric wrong side up, batting, and novelty fabric wrong side down. You will have a sandwich with batting in the center and the right side of the novelty fabric facing you on both top and bottom.
• Quilt this sandwich. Here is a good place to have fun. Try out your new walking foot. Practice some motif you have been wanting to try. Outline quilt the design in the fabric. It’s such a small little quilt, just have fun.
• Make sure the completed square lays flat. Press them if necessary. Trim up to a square so that all the edges of all the layers match. The quilting process does take up to some extent. At this point your squares will not be perfect eight inch squares any longer. But it doesn’t matter. Just trim them up to a perfect square. Round the corners if you like. I use several old CD’s glued together to make a rotary cutting guide. Works great.
• Press the two strips of binding in half lengthwise and the fold in the edges to the inside center to make bias binding. Apply the binding all along the edges. I topstitch the binding for extra strength.

You’re done.

These are quick and easy to make.

Now you can get into the kitchen and make something from one of Julia’s cookbooks to celebrate her birthday this weekend!

Bon Appetit!

National Sewing Machine Day

National Sewing Machine Day on August 12th and it's a good time to pamper your hardworking machine.

My Bernina 1090 was "formerly owned" when I bought it almost 15 years ago and it has been a work horse ever since.  One of the first things I learned was how to maintain the machine.   It was the first thing we learned way back in 7th grade Home Ec and it has served me, and my machines, well all these years.   

First and foremost check your owner's manual to be sure that you can clean and maintain your machine without voiding it's warranty.  In general, newer computerized machines are factory sealed and maintenance is only allowed by a trained technician.    If this is the case with your machine it is time to take your machine for it’s annual vacation to be cleaned and serviced.   

If you don’t have your manual you can contact the manufacturer or search the Internet.    A-1 sewing machine has links to free manuals online.   Another site, Sewing Machine Reviewer offer links to all the major manufacturers.   It offers links to free manuals, as well as, other model’s manuals that cost a few dollars.    If you have misplaced your original manual this may be money well spent.   

It was expected that older machines would be cleaned and maintained by the owner.     It is a good rule to oil your machine after eight hours of sewing.     When I worked in a clothing manufacturer’s business years ago the ladies in the sample sewing room cleaned and oiled their machines at the beginning of each workday.    Time was allotted for them to clean out the bobbin race and oil it.   Also, a drop of oil was added to several points in the head of the machine wherever the operator’s manual, or the floor supervisor, indicated.    It only took them 10 or 15 minutes but it was considered important to keep their machines humming all day long.   
Manufacturers suggest that machines be cleaned and oiled every eight hours or so.    Most hobby sewers don’t sew for eight hours straight.   (Though sometimes on deadline for a quilt show I have come close.)   Maintaining your machine at the beginning of each new project is one way to remember.     Even machines that are factory sealed benefit from frequent cleaning.   

Some quilters make sure to clean out their bobbin areas when they insert a new full bobbin or two.   Because I use a lot of felted wool this area gets a lot of lint.    

Please DON’T blow into the machine to clean it out.    Canned air used to clean computers seems to be an easy way to go but it can cause problems in the future.    You don’t want to force dirt and lint further into the machine.   You want to remove it.    

The best way to do this is to use a vacuum attachment that is sold for computers and electronics.     It is basically a specialized miniaturized hose with small brushes that can get into the areas under your machine.   It works great to remove all that fuzz that accumulates in the bobbin area.    If left there the lint can cause additional drag on your bobbin race and causes the machine to work harder.   

And keep the outside of your machine clean, too.    A cover at night, even if it’s only a lightweight cloth thrown over the machine, keeps out dust, and in my house, an inquisitive cat.    At the very most, I use a microfiber cloth to wipe down the outside of my machine.   

Keep your machine clean and it will serve you for years and years to come.   I own a 1941 Singer Model 221 (commonly called a Featherweight) that I bought from its original owner years ago.    71 years old and still going strong.  It has been lovingly maintained by the sewer/owners all that time.   

2010 Hoffman Challenge artists announced

As promised, the 2010 Hoffman Challenge artists were announced.    You can see the results on the Hoffman Challenge web site. 

Bonsai on Front Hall Table
KBagioni 2010

Look for my quilt, Bonsai on Front Hall Table, on the list of quilts chosen to tour this year.    I was thrilled with the news.    I haven't been doing much quilting at all in recent years because of my involvement with the Board of the Vermont Quilt Festival.    Unfortunately, being a quilt bureacrat leaves little time to actually do any quilting.   Now that I am a trustee emerita I get to sew again.   

Using felted wool always makes me nervous.   I love the material but judges don't seem to be so inclined.  They either hate it or love it.  For my purposes it works beautifully with thread embellishment.    Since I like to "sketch" with my sewing machine using  felted wool as the applique base helps.   The stitches add texture and color to the thick but stable material.   It's always fun to see the applique, often just a blob, take definition as the threadwork is added.  

Sulky Ultratwist thread
works beautifully for leaf forms
in dappled light.

Tree trunks are favorite
shapes to "sketch".

For this little quilt I actually painted the Hoffman fabric.  First I added white stripes to tone down the gold in this pretty fabric and to give the illusion of old-timey wallpaper.   Then I added grayed areas to suggest shadowing.     The threadwork on the bonsai tree heightened the illusion of light streaming in from the upper left.   

Why is it that my favorite part of the process, the actual threadwork, seems to take the least amount of time during the actual project?   

Copyright Info for Artists

A member of a mailing I read just posted this link to the Journal of Biocommunication special issue about copyright and its protection for artists.   This is a publication that serves the medical illustration community.   But don't worry.   Copyright issues cross all mediums, including textile, of course.  

From the publisher's comments: "Our current SPECIAL ISSUE focuses on aspects of artists’ rights, and broadly covers subjects of illustrators’ rights during the late 1800s. We also include articles that discuss more recent issues surrounding existing copyright law, copyright registration, artists’ rights, and the current U.S. Orphan Works legislation."

Copyright protection no longer consists of mailing a copy of your last work to your home in a sealed envelope.   Make sure to read the article Perfect and Strengthen Your Copyrights  by Cynthia Turner.

"Copyright is the law of authorship and grants a body of exclusive rights to visual authors. This paper presents a survey of the meaning, scope and profound validity of copyright, and notes some of the increasing pressures wrought by the digitization of the world’s creative works and the rise of anti-copyright advocates. Although proposed orphan works legislation would override the protections afforded by registration, it remains a prudent choice for artists under current law. A brief guide to registering and searching the new eCO (electronic Copyright Office) assists visual authors with the online registration process and monitoring of their public records."

and continues on to explain,


"Copyright is the law of authorship. It is quite simply a visual author’s exclusive right to make copies of his or her work, authorize others to make copies, and stop those who make unauthorized copies. Copyright has also come to mean the body of exclusive rights granted by law to visual authors for protection of their work.

. . .

Copyright automatically protects an original work of authorship the moment you fix an idea in a tangible medium of expression. The ownership of that copyright automatically vests with you: an author’s right is based upon the act of creation itself. The copyright confers a specific set of exclusive rights to you, and to others authorized by you, to 1) reproduce the work, 2) prepare derivatives based on the work, 3) distribute the work under your terms, 4) perform the work, or 5) display the work publicly.

. . .

Artists rely on copyright for creative control over their works. Copyright’s protection of original authorship guarantees an artist’s independent voice, now and for posterity. Copyright preserves the integrity of your work, prevents corrupt editions, and protects the privacy of your unpublished works and early drafts."

Cynthia includes directions in the Appendix to her article on how to register your work for copyright.   

Now, even though my kids will contest it, I did not need copyright protection in the 1800's but do need it now.   All artists need to be aware of current copyright issues.   This Special Issue of the Journal of Biocommunication is a good resource for all artists.   

I hope this information is useful to you.

Share your story about copyright issues.  
Have you ever had a problem?  
Needed the protection?  
Let us know.  

Great resource for new sewers

While walking through my local Jo-Ann’s ETC the other day I spotted the magazine SewStylish by Connecticut’s own Taunton press. This is a magazine aimed at beginning sewers. It is sort of the baby sister to Taunton’s more well known Threads magazine.
Now I have read and loved Threads magazine for years. An article in Threads many years ago started me on my love affair with felted wools. The articles are informative and well done. But Threads is aimed at the experienced and adventurous sewer. Beginning sewers could quickly be overwhelmed. SewStylish serves a need in the sewing community . . . the new sewer that needs to learn. The articles are well written and easy to understand. The photos continue the excellent tradition of all of Taunton’s publications. They are clear close-ups that clarify points in the articles.
The two issues I read included tips on tools, techniques, and garment alterations. My favorite was an article giving basic instructions on making a skirt pattern from duct tape.

Years ago I made a dress form with duct tape. It was a project that took half dozen rolls of tape . . . and a few glasses of wine (I am claustrophobic).  My husband thought I had lost it but helped me anyway.  Although he kept cracking jokes and I was trying hard not to laugh because of the tight fit we were able to make an exact replica of my form.    (BTW - Use an old oversized tee shirt to make the form.  Seam it to make it fit snug and then go ahead and start wrapping.)   The time it took to make it (a couple of hours one evening) was well spent and it resulted in a form that served me well for many years. Every person’s body is asymmetrical, some more than others.  My right side is larger than my left and my shoulders are rounded.  This became readily apparent as soon as I looked at the duct tape form.   A skintight duplicate of your individual body shape makes an excellent base for pattern drafting and garment alterations. No matter how good a store bought dress form is it can’t duplicate your body eccentricities as well as a form made this way. Once made this dcut tape dummy will stand up to many, many patterns and changes.
Throughout the magazine are directions to the website for additional info. Originally I was peeved but after checking out some of the links I was impressed. There was a gold mine of information there at the click of my mouse.
I found a sale package of two of the SewStylish magazines for a bargain price of $8.99. Look for the freestanding display near the cash registers or near the magazine section.
Check out the magazine and its website.