Friday, January 20, 2012

Warp

The warp is the lengthwise grain that runs the length of woven fabric. This is parallel to the edges or selvage

of the fabric and perpendicular to the filler threads or weft threads. The warp threads run in the direction of the lengthwise grain and have little to no stretch. (See also grain and weft)
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When cutting a pattern it is best to orient the pattern pieces so the lengthwise grain runs up and down the body unless there is a specific reason for not doing so, such as, matching patterns or directional fabrics or taking advantage of bias. This will give the most stability because most garments hang from the shoulders. 

Chasubles, especially, benefit from being layed out on the lengthwise grain, benefitting from the strength of the warp threads.   There is no other support in this free flowing garment.  

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

Needle board

A needle board is a tool to assist in pressing fabrics with a pile that is easily crushed, such as velvet. Originally made of rows of fine needles anchored in a board or heavy canvas, hence the name, needle board but now they can be made of artificial, heat resistant materials.
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Place the item to be pressed face down on the needle board and press with steam on the back side. Allow to cool before moving.
I bought my needle board at a tag sale years ago for 25 cents. I don't press much velvet but I have used it to press felted wool applique pieces. It allowed the piece to be pressed flat while keeping the 3-dimensional character of the thick applique pieces. It also keeps trims on the edges of orphrey bands crisp but not flattened.  

Monday, January 16, 2012

Thimbles

A thimble is a protective cover worn on the finger to aid in pushing the needle while hand-sewing.  Thimbles of one sort or another have been in use for thousands of years.   They range from strictly utilitarian to extravagantly decorative.

Friday, January 13, 2012

Colorfast(ness)

Colorfastness refers to the tendency of fabric, usually in clothing items, to hold its color. Tests for colorfastness include subjecting the fabric to light, washing with cleaning products, and rubbing. If a fabric is not deemed colorfast, or if the information is not available, it is recommended that it be washed/dry cleaned with like colors or alone until color loss is reduced. There are some products on the market, one is called “Retayne” that aids in binding dye particles in the fabric to minimize color loss. (See also, bleeding and crocking)
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The old rule from my 7th grade Home Ec teacher still stands. Treat the fabric BEFORE making a garment/project exactly the way you will AFTER it is completed. If it will be laundered, wash it before. If it will be dry cleaned, ditto. Avoid unpleasant surprises and possibly ruining something you have worked hard on.
Do I wash fabrics I plan to use in my vestments? Generally not, with the exception of batiks. They hold a lot of dye and sometimes this can migrate to fabrics they touch in the hot, humid summers in CT.  I construct my own orphrey bands and this is where the problem might arise because I like to use batiks.   I use natural fibers and fiber blends for the main body of my chasubles and I usually dry clean these before construction begins.  
Don't forget to test trims for colorfastness as well.   Sometimes these can shed dye.   Always test BEFORE to avoid problems afterwards.   

Wednesday, January 11, 2012

A-line

An a-line garment will have a slight outward flare from the waist to the hem. It skims over the hips in a

slightly curve and then drops to the hem in a straight line. The garment resembles the shape of the letter “A”.

Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Feed dogs

The feed dogs are the “teeth” you see moving back and forth under the throat plate of the sewing  machine or serger (overcast or merrow machine). Their purpose is to move the fabric back, forth, or even sideways as it is sewn. Some sergers with “differential feed” have split feed dogs, two pair instead of a single pair, that can vary the amount of push and pull on the fabric. This handy feature allows the machine to handle difficult fabrics with ease.

Monday, January 9, 2012

Bodkin

A bodkin is a tool used to insert elastic or cording through a casing. In a pinch, you can use a safety pin but a dedicated bodkin is handier to use, especially when the casing is very narrow.