Pressing cloth

A pressing cloth is a bit of fabric that goes under the iron when pressing to prevent heat damage to the garment or other item being pressed.
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You can buy pressing cloths or use scraps of fabric to make your own. I prefer natural fibers, cotton, linen, or lightweight wool. I find that polyester or very thin fabrics are no better than no pressing cloth at all. The purpose of the cloth is to absorb direct steam and heat and distribute it more gently over the surface you are pressing. It helps minimize shine and impressions left by the iron on susceptible fabrics.

Silks are especially susceptible to damage by high heat or steam.   Using a pressing cloth preserves the beautiful shine of the silks I like to use in my applique motifs.  
There is an art to pressing items well and using a pressing cloth helps to give good results.

Stitch in the ditch

Stitching in the Ditch is a method of stitching on the outside of the garment through all layers in the groove or ditch of the seam.
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By stitching in the seam or as close as possible to the seam it is possible to secure waistbands, facings and bindings to a garment neatly. The stitching holds down the layers without adding bulk.

In quilting stitching in the ditch is a method of machine quilting that provides the stability of quilting the layers together without adding a quilting line to distract from the design. Often it is used as the first step in machine quilting because it stabilizes the quilt invisibly.

Special feet for the sewing machine make this process easier. Look for a foot with a metal guides that will help the needle stay centered in the seam line.

This is an especially good technique for adding stability to stoles and chasubles.   The stitching can be hidden in the trim on the sides of orphrey bands.

Starch or spray starch

Starch/spray starch is a vegetable product that increases the stiffness of fabric when applied. It is intended that the fabric then be ironed flat. Earlier forms of starch products needed to be boiled and cooled before applying to clean fabric. Now it is available in spray cans to be more easily applied to the cloth while ironing.


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WARNING: Avoid scorching. Starched fabrics scorch more easily.

Starched fabrics also yellow with age much more quickly.

Remember to test an area of fabric with starch before using in the actual project. Some fabrics will permanently stain with application of starch products.  Silks and cotton damasks are especially easy to stain.

Fabrics stiffened with starch makes piecing and applique much easier.

Looper

A looper is the part of the merrow machine or serger that replaces conventional bobbins. One or two loopers form thread loops that the needles pass through to complete the stitch.
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A standard sewing machine, a lockstitching machine, uses a bobbin and top thread to complete the stitch. The serger, or merrow machine, uses top thread(s) and bottom looper(s) to complete the stitch. Thread specially developed for the high speed of the serger machine works best in the loopers. Some machines also afford the use of larger, non-traditional threads in the loopers for decorative effects.

Weft

The weft is the crosswise threads that run perpendicular to the lengthwise grain. These threads run at 90° angles to the length of woven fabrics (or the width). Also known as the cross grain it has little to no stretch and is usually 45° from the bias. (see also, warp and grain)
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Some fabrics have different fibers for warp and weft making an interesting play of texture in the fabric.

Silk dupioni often has different colors in the warp and weft. This makes for an iridescent quality in this luxurious fabric. Changes in direction and light can appear to change the actual color of the fabric.  This is a favorite fabric for vestments.   The colorplay, especially in low light, can be very effective.   It adds a bit of sparkle without appearing gaudy.