Warp

The warp is the lengthwise grain that runs the length of woven fabric. This is parallel to the edges or selvage

of the fabric and perpendicular to the filler threads or weft threads. The warp threads run in the direction of the lengthwise grain and have little to no stretch. (See also grain and weft)
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When cutting a pattern it is best to orient the pattern pieces so the lengthwise grain runs up and down the body unless there is a specific reason for not doing so, such as, matching patterns or directional fabrics or taking advantage of bias. This will give the most stability because most garments hang from the shoulders. 

Chasubles, especially, benefit from being layed out on the lengthwise grain, benefitting from the strength of the warp threads.   There is no other support in this free flowing garment.  

Needle board

A needle board is a tool to assist in pressing fabrics with a pile that is easily crushed, such as velvet. Originally made of rows of fine needles anchored in a board or heavy canvas, hence the name, needle board but now they can be made of artificial, heat resistant materials.
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Place the item to be pressed face down on the needle board and press with steam on the back side. Allow to cool before moving.
I bought my needle board at a tag sale years ago for 25 cents. I don't press much velvet but I have used it to press felted wool applique pieces. It allowed the piece to be pressed flat while keeping the 3-dimensional character of the thick applique pieces. It also keeps trims on the edges of orphrey bands crisp but not flattened.  

Thimbles

A thimble is a protective cover worn on the finger to aid in pushing the needle while hand-sewing.  Thimbles of one sort or another have been in use for thousands of years.   They range from strictly utilitarian to extravagantly decorative.

Colorfast(ness)

Colorfastness refers to the tendency of fabric, usually in clothing items, to hold its color. Tests for colorfastness include subjecting the fabric to light, washing with cleaning products, and rubbing. If a fabric is not deemed colorfast, or if the information is not available, it is recommended that it be washed/dry cleaned with like colors or alone until color loss is reduced. There are some products on the market, one is called “Retayne” that aids in binding dye particles in the fabric to minimize color loss. (See also, bleeding and crocking)
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The old rule from my 7th grade Home Ec teacher still stands. Treat the fabric BEFORE making a garment/project exactly the way you will AFTER it is completed. If it will be laundered, wash it before. If it will be dry cleaned, ditto. Avoid unpleasant surprises and possibly ruining something you have worked hard on.
Do I wash fabrics I plan to use in my vestments? Generally not, with the exception of batiks. They hold a lot of dye and sometimes this can migrate to fabrics they touch in the hot, humid summers in CT.  I construct my own orphrey bands and this is where the problem might arise because I like to use batiks.   I use natural fibers and fiber blends for the main body of my chasubles and I usually dry clean these before construction begins.  
Don't forget to test trims for colorfastness as well.   Sometimes these can shed dye.   Always test BEFORE to avoid problems afterwards.   

A-line

An a-line garment will have a slight outward flare from the waist to the hem. It skims over the hips in a

slightly curve and then drops to the hem in a straight line. The garment resembles the shape of the letter “A”.

Feed dogs

The feed dogs are the “teeth” you see moving back and forth under the throat plate of the sewing  machine or serger (overcast or merrow machine). Their purpose is to move the fabric back, forth, or even sideways as it is sewn. Some sergers with “differential feed” have split feed dogs, two pair instead of a single pair, that can vary the amount of push and pull on the fabric. This handy feature allows the machine to handle difficult fabrics with ease.

Bodkin

A bodkin is a tool used to insert elastic or cording through a casing. In a pinch, you can use a safety pin but a dedicated bodkin is handier to use, especially when the casing is very narrow.

Starch

Starch/spray starch is a vegetable product that increases the stiffness of fabric when applied. It is intended that the fabric be ironed flat after application of the wet product. Earlier forms of starch products needed to be boiled and cooled before applying to clean fabric. Now it is available in spray cans to be applied to the cloth while ironing.

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Fabric stiffened with starch makes piecing and applique much easier. Remember to test an area of fabric with starch before using in on the actual vestment. Some fabrics, especially silks and satins and some polyesters will permanently stain with application of starch products.

Looper

A looper is the part of the merrow machine or serger that replaces conventional bobbins. One or two loopers form thread loops that the needles pass through to complete the stitch.

Nap

Nap, sometimes known as “pile”, is the natural direction of fibers on some fabrics. It is most

distinctive on fabrics, such as, corduroy or velvet. Stroked “in the direction of the nap” the fabric will flatten and lie smooth. Stroked “against the nap” the fibers of the fabric will feel rough and will not lie down neatly. There may also be color change when looking at napped fabrics from different angles. When laying out a pattern on such a fabric it is important to have all pattern pieces going in the same direction. When laying out pattern pieces for clothing it is best to have the nap going down the body so natural movement smooths the fabrics.

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Nap is not limited to long fiber fabrics, such as, corduroy or velvet. Some smooth fabrics will show only a color change. This fabric is also “nap fabric” and care must be taken so all pattern pieces run in the same direction. However, you can also alternate direction for an interesting effect as the color changes on the finished garment. Silk dupioni is one fabric that can have this effect because of the way it is woven.  It is important to audition this fabric in low light conditions and from a distance to be sure the color change gives the desired effect in vestments.  

Tailor

1. A person who makes and fits clothing, usually men’s suits.

2. The process of fitting clothing to the individual wearer.

3. The process of constructing clothing, usually jackets and pants, using linings, underlinings, interfacings, and padding.

 
 
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While not strictly tailoring, which usually means more constructed clothing, it is extremely important to fit vestments to the wearer.   Albs, chasubles, and stoles that are too long pose a tripping hazard. 

Fabric finish

The fabric finishing process adds color, hand, and other characteristics to the woven goods (grey or greige goods) at the end of the manufacturing process.   The finishing process may include scouring, bleaching, mercerising, singeing fibers, raising fibers, calendering, shrinking, dyeing, and/or printing.   According to the finishing processes actually used on each fabric, the same greige goods can come out looking, feeling, and behaving entirely differently.  

Cotton fabric

Cotton fabric has been made for the past 5000 years and still remains the most popular fabric for home decor and clothing. It is a versatile fabric made from the staple, soft, fluffy fibers surrounding the seeds of the plant's seed pod called a boll. The fiber is almost pure cellulose and makes a lightweight fiber that dyes readily. It makes a cool, breathable, absorbent fabric that is comfortable to wear, durable, and washable or dry cleanable. Cotton fabric does wrinkle easily and cotton blends are popular because of this.

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Search alternate sections of the fabric store for interesting cotton fabrics for vestment construction.  Home decor offers polished cottons that have a finish that can be shiny and damasks have beautiful weave patterns.  In the quilting section batiks have tone-on-tone color palettes that look striking on vestments or altar appointments.  

Rayon thread

Rayon  thread is a natural fiber thread with a natural, light-reflecting sheen.   It is a popular embroidery thread that absorbs dye easily resulting in a wide range of vibrant colors.   It is not generally colorfast and care must be taken to avoid bleach during laundering, including colorfast bleach products.

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Rayon thread makes a great choice for decorative work on liturgical vestments.   It is easy to work with and performs well in high speed sewing and embroidery machines.   It it available in a many colors, blends, and even metallic shades.   Because of its luster it shows up well in low light situations.  

Glossary of Sewing Terms

The language of sewing can often be intimidating.  And, sewing liturgical vestments can be even more so.   The specialty fabrics sometimes require special handling or techniques. Look at "pressing" versus "ironing". How are they different? How are they the same? Does it matter? Why?
When learning or improving a skill, learning to speak the language is a great first step. I offer this day-by-day glossary as an easy way to improve your sewing skills in 2012. Just to be impish, the terms will not be introduced in strict alphabetical order. I have randomized the list to keep things interesting.

According to Webster's dictionary a glossary is "a list of difficult, technical, or foreign terms with definitions or translations, as for some particular author, field of knowledge, etc."
Just getting this list together has become a labor of love.  While the terms defined each day will mirror my sewing/art blog at http://www.kathybagioni.com/, an eye toward the special niche of liturgical sewing will be considered.  Special notes will be included whenever necessary.   I've learned a lot and I hope you do, too.

So, meet me back here tomorrow for the first Sewing Word of the Day for 2012.

And, let me know if there is a specific term you would like to discuss. I love learning new things together with you.